Post by Q on Dec 27, 2009 4:41:10 GMT -6
So, I think that it'd be a good idea to compile our knowledge of armor smithing here. That way, if someone decides out of left field they wanna dabble in making armor (like I did), they have a resource that can give them pointers and possibly answer questions before they become issues.
I'll start.
1. If you have a dremel tool with metal cutting disks, these work wonders for cutting links for chain maile. This method seems to work really well for cutting them flush so when you go to close the links they match up. WARNING: If you use this method, there will be sparks and possibly cut open hands. For the love of whatever deity you pray to, wear thick gloves and protective eyewear. And if you've never used a dremel or never cut metal before, ask someone who knows how to at least supervise. And make sure you use the slowest speed available to you, because once you cut through the wire, the link will go flying.
2. When coiling the wire to make links for chain maile, don't make the coil too long. The act of coiling basically makes the wire into a spring. The longer it is, the more force you'll have to use to actually coil the wire as opposed to "loading the spring".
3. For any armor involving metal, it'd be a good idea to go out and buy cheap needle nose pliers and grind the teeth off so that the teeth don't scratch up the metal.
4. Coiling the wire for chain maile by hand is slow and tedious work, but I'd recommend doing it that way to really build up your fore arm strength.
5. When you first start working with leather, one tool you should look into buying is a slicker. It's a small plastic wheel looking do-dad. Rounding the edges of the armor is really simple with it and it will save much time and frustration. Simply wet the edge of the leather, and run the slicker over it repeatedly. It has a groove that will conform the edge of the now somewhat pliable leather to a rounded shape.
6. Leather = an empty wallet. I'd recommend starting with small projects first so as to hone your skills before you tackle something bigger.
7. You don't have to boil leather or wax it to make it hard. A easier way is to simply soak it in water. Once you have the piece cut out and ready, fill your sink or bath tub (depending on the size of the piece) with water and hold the leather under the water until bubbles stop coming to the surface. This will harden the leather as it dries, which depending on the size of the piece can take as long as a day or two. You have to form the piece as it's drying, so find a form to put it on, or for a more exact fit, hold it against it's particular part you your body until it feels dry on the surface but is cool to the touch. This means the center is still wet, but the surface is still dry so it should be fine to let it dry as long as it won't get flattened before drying.
8. Dont put rivets in leather armor too close to the edge of the piece. This will cause the leather around it undue stress and it will tear eventually.
9. An easy way to make a pattern for leather armor is to put an article of clothing that's form fitting on the part of the body that the armor is to cover. Wrap duck tape around that part of the body, then carefully cut it off with scissors. Cut it into the shape you'd like the armor to be, then trace the outline of it onto the leather. This will ensure that it's the right size for you.
10. Remember when making armor out of "water hardened" leather that it will shrink some after it dries.
11. Remember to check the minimum thickness/gauge of the leather/wire for armor grade materials, and to write this down and bring it with you when you buy materials.
12. Consult the rules several times throughout making your armor to ensure that it will meet the rules. Nothing sucks worse than finishing a project (especially with expensive-ass leather) only to find out you can't use it.
If anyone else has any more insight to add, feel free to do so.
I'll start.
1. If you have a dremel tool with metal cutting disks, these work wonders for cutting links for chain maile. This method seems to work really well for cutting them flush so when you go to close the links they match up. WARNING: If you use this method, there will be sparks and possibly cut open hands. For the love of whatever deity you pray to, wear thick gloves and protective eyewear. And if you've never used a dremel or never cut metal before, ask someone who knows how to at least supervise. And make sure you use the slowest speed available to you, because once you cut through the wire, the link will go flying.
2. When coiling the wire to make links for chain maile, don't make the coil too long. The act of coiling basically makes the wire into a spring. The longer it is, the more force you'll have to use to actually coil the wire as opposed to "loading the spring".
3. For any armor involving metal, it'd be a good idea to go out and buy cheap needle nose pliers and grind the teeth off so that the teeth don't scratch up the metal.
4. Coiling the wire for chain maile by hand is slow and tedious work, but I'd recommend doing it that way to really build up your fore arm strength.
5. When you first start working with leather, one tool you should look into buying is a slicker. It's a small plastic wheel looking do-dad. Rounding the edges of the armor is really simple with it and it will save much time and frustration. Simply wet the edge of the leather, and run the slicker over it repeatedly. It has a groove that will conform the edge of the now somewhat pliable leather to a rounded shape.
6. Leather = an empty wallet. I'd recommend starting with small projects first so as to hone your skills before you tackle something bigger.
7. You don't have to boil leather or wax it to make it hard. A easier way is to simply soak it in water. Once you have the piece cut out and ready, fill your sink or bath tub (depending on the size of the piece) with water and hold the leather under the water until bubbles stop coming to the surface. This will harden the leather as it dries, which depending on the size of the piece can take as long as a day or two. You have to form the piece as it's drying, so find a form to put it on, or for a more exact fit, hold it against it's particular part you your body until it feels dry on the surface but is cool to the touch. This means the center is still wet, but the surface is still dry so it should be fine to let it dry as long as it won't get flattened before drying.
8. Dont put rivets in leather armor too close to the edge of the piece. This will cause the leather around it undue stress and it will tear eventually.
9. An easy way to make a pattern for leather armor is to put an article of clothing that's form fitting on the part of the body that the armor is to cover. Wrap duck tape around that part of the body, then carefully cut it off with scissors. Cut it into the shape you'd like the armor to be, then trace the outline of it onto the leather. This will ensure that it's the right size for you.
10. Remember when making armor out of "water hardened" leather that it will shrink some after it dries.
11. Remember to check the minimum thickness/gauge of the leather/wire for armor grade materials, and to write this down and bring it with you when you buy materials.
12. Consult the rules several times throughout making your armor to ensure that it will meet the rules. Nothing sucks worse than finishing a project (especially with expensive-ass leather) only to find out you can't use it.
If anyone else has any more insight to add, feel free to do so.